All About Dogs by LowchensAustralia.com

 

REMOVAL OF TICKS

Differences between the Australian and other paralysis ticks
Killing the Australian paralysis tick before removal?
Handling ticks
Methods of removal.
After removal
Pressure immobilisation?
National Tick Paralysis Forum recommendations- for pets
TAGS (Tick Alert Group Support, Australia) recommendations- for humans
United States Food and Drug Administration Guidelines (copied below) - or the original page
St John Ambulance Manual recommendations- for humans
CSL Antivenom Handbook recommendations- for humans
Australian Venom Research Unit recommendations- for humans
Australia's Most Dangerous spiders, snakes and marine creatures (Australian Geographic) - recommendations- for humans
About the insect repellant DEET

Differences between the Australian and other paralysis ticks

With ticks in other countries the transmission of infectious diseases is a major concern. Methods of removing and handling ticks have been suggested to minimise the risk of the tick imparting an infectious dose of microbial organisms (particularly Lyme disease). This problem is to date not as well appreciated in Australia.

In North American tick poisoning removal of the tick results in obvious improvement from paralysis within 24 hrs and usually complete recovery within 72 hours (Malik and Farrow, 1991). Tick-transmitted diseases are more of a problem than tick paralysis.

Tick-transmitted diseases in humans are not as common a problem in Australia. Nevertheless the clinical syndrome of a Lyme like disease associated with tick bites is a major reality for the unfortunate few so affected (especially in the Nothern Beaches area of Sydney). Rickettsial Spotted Fever can also be very debilitating for some individuals (most recover uneventfully with antimicrobial treatment). See Tick-transmitted diseases. Thus perhaps Australians should be similarly cautious about how ticks are removed and handled. Removal of an Australian paralysis tick also has other concerns. In humans it may (rarely) result in a sudden injection of allergenic substances. In domestic animals (and children) the potential to cause injection of more toxic saliva is a concern. Most cases of Australian tick paralysis initially worsen after the tick has been removed.

Therefore the strategies proposed for removal of the American ticks are designed mainly to reduce the chances of injecting more microbial pathogens. By comparison, the strategies often suggested for removing the Australian paralysis tick have been mainly to minimise further injection of allergen (all humans) and toxin (domestic animals and children). Nevertheless, tick-borne diseases do occur in Australia and so taking precautions in removal with this in mind are perhaps warranted. Unfortunately there is no evidence to say that in Australia the concerns about how the tick is removed are real or that the methods proposed to reduce the perceived risks are effective. Despite this, there is usually little harm in taking a cautious approach.

Handling ticks

For some individuals handling a live or even a killed paralysis tick can induce allergic reactions.

There is also the risk of transmission of infectious organisms. If a tick's body bursts upon removal, entry may be gained to the body of the handler via cuts or sores. It may also be possible to become infected by hand-to-eye contact after handling a burst tick or from a tick contaminated with its own faecal material (Garris, 1991). These risks are recognised in the USA where Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever and Lyme Disease are common zoonoses. In Australia Rickettsial Spotted fever is a potential risk, as is a Lyme-like organism [to my knowldege such means of transmission have not yet been documented in Australia -NF].

For the reasons mentioned above, the wearing of gloves (eg latex type) may be advisable when removing ticks. TAGS (see below) recommends washing hands after handling ticks.

Killing the Australian paralysis tick before removal?

In humans the TAGS group recommends not trying to pre-kill ticks before removal. Applying chemicals may only irritate the tick and increase the risk of injecting more toxin or infectious organisms (Lyme-like disease, or Rickettsial Spotted Fever).

In domestic pets there has been some debate about whether ticks should be killed before removal and if so, how they should be killed. There may be 2 advantages of pre-killing the tick. Firstly, manipulation of a live tick might cause it to inject more tick toxin. Secondly, the physical presence of the tick may actually be inciting a beneficial inflammation that "walls off" or somehow binds the toxic fractions (see also the tick lesion). In other words there may be some benefit in leaving a dead tick attached for a while (Stone et al, 1989).

Conversely, however, there is the concern over whether the process of killing the tick by chemical means could cause it to inject more toxin (saliva) or more infectious organisms (gut contents).

Results from a recent national survey (Atwell RB et al, 2000) suggest that neither the chemical pre-killing of ticks nor the injecting of antiserum under the tick lesion improved mortality or recovery time. A rapid pull technique is now the preferred technique recommended by the second National Tick Paralysis Forum (2000).

Some of the previously suggested methods of "safely" pre-killing the tick included:

1. Application of a pyrethrin or pyrethroid insecticide- eg as a concentrate solution (eg Permoxin ®), personal household insect spray (some veterinarians recommend Mortein ® etc).
2. Application of methylated spirit [Whilst methylated spirit is a good preservative of ticks and has been recommended for pre-killing, I have not actually seen evidence to say that it prevents saliva being injected or stomach contents being disgorged]
3. Application of the insect skin repellant "DEET " which is found in most common insect repellant sprays and lotions (eg. Aerogard ®, Rid ®). DEET reportedly will kill the tick within 20-30 minutes.
4. In a recent publication "Pet First Aid", published by the Australian Red Cross, "tick spray" is recommended but the active ingredient is not specified:-
   "Place a small amount of tick spray (available in pet stores or at your veterinary hospital) on a gauze sponge, cotton ball or paper towel and hold it over the tick. This will usually cause the tick to start to back out in 30-60 seconds. When the tick starts to back out, grab the entire tick with a pair of tweezers. Alcohol, mineral oil or petroleum jelly can be used in place of the tick spray, but they generally don't work as well. Don't use matches to singe the tick as it may burn the animal's skin." [This book is based on an Australian adaptation of an American text. The "tick spray" treatment sounds good but I have no knowledge of it. I cannot vouch for mineral oil or petroleum jelly either- NF]

Whatever the case, most dogs actually become clinically worse in the hours immediately following removal- it remains to be quantitatively established as to which method of removal or pre-killing, if any, causes the least immediate harm.

The author [NF] has yet to see research evidence that chemical pre-killing is necessarily better in preventing further injection of salivary toxins. It may well be better than a rough removal in cases where the operator was inexperienced or implements unavailable or removal was difficult (eg on the head). However, if it were achievable and if one assumes there is no immunological walling off benefit in leaving the tick, I cannot see it being better than rapid removal, where the capitulum alone was grasped at skin level so that saliva and stomach contents were forced back into the body of the tick rather than forward into the skin of the host and the tick then quickly extracted by traction. Even if the mouthparts were left behind, they are not life threatening whereas the salivary toxins are, and furthermore, if the granulomatous inflammatory response were to help localise the toxin, leaving the mouthparts might even be beneficial in the short term in dogs.

Some veterinarians also suggest that tick antiserum (approximately 0.5 mL) is injected under the tick crater before the tick is removed to neutralise any toxin that might be further released. The actual usefulness of this is purely theoretical and anecdotal. [The concept of physical proximity of toxin and antitoxin seems attractive but local injection increases manipulation of the tick lesion. Also, are tick toxins and antibodies both absorbed via the same channels, ie lymphatic or venous/capillary?]

Mechanical means of removing ticks

It may require a moderate amount of force to dislodge a live paralysis tick. These ticks have long jaws that may embed themselves deeply within the skin of the host. The presence of the tick causes an inflammatory reaction in the skin often called a tick granuloma or tick "crater". This lesion is often a 1-2 cm area of thickened and raised skin with a central 1-3 mm depression which becomes capped by a small scab after the tick has dropped off or been removed.

The principles of removing a tick are: that one should be relatively quick and that one keeps manipulation of both the tick and the surrounding skin to a minimum. It is the body of the tick, not the capitulum, which contains the salivary glands (and therefore the tick toxins)- avoid squeezing the body of the paralysis tick. Compression of the tick's body has the potential to i) inject more salivary toxin, ii) inject potential pathogens within the gut fluid, and iii) inject allergenic substances. Pinching off the capitulum with forceps or tweezers should reduce the injection of further toxin, bacteria and allergens. After removal the tick should be destroyed unless it requires identification or is required for scientific research because a fully engorged female may survive and release hundreds of viable eggs into the environment.

Many methods of removal are used. Unfortunately, I cannot recommend any one method of tick removal. Operator familiarity and the availability of implements will vary with the circumstances. There almost seems to be a mythology about this subject. If the principles of rapid removal with minimal manipulation of the body of the tick and surrounding skin can be adhered to, then this will permit many acceptable methods of direct extraction. Pre-killing the tick with an insecticide is probably not necessary if removal can be achieved quickly and efficiently.

[NOTE: The concern of injecting further toxins or of injecting potential pathogens by squeezing the tick's body is, to my knowledge, a theoretical one in Australia. I have not seen experimental evidence which can categorically state that there is any difference in clinical outcome. Indeed it is difficult to judge even empirically or anecdotally whether taking the precaution of not squeezing the tick's body makes any difference. It is for this reason that some veterinarians, experienced with tick cases, remove ticks simply by grasping between thumbnail and fingernail and pulling them out (Warwick Prowse pers. com., Email: W I Prowse, BVSc, MRCVS, NSW Board of Veterinary Surgeons, Thirroul Veterinary Clinic, NSW.)] Anecdotally in humans, however, the act of removing the tick has been associated with worsening allergic reactions (Moorhouse, 1981).

Removing a tick from the head of an animal can be difficult if the animal is not cooperative. If signs of paralysis or breathing difficuly are already present it is best performed by a veterinarian who can sedate the animal (as well as observe and treat the animal). If no clinical signs are present then killing the tick by applying an insecticide may be a better option than struggling and disturbing the tick lesion (be carfeul to avoid contacting the eyes with any chemicals, however).

1. Using a specially designed "tick extractor"- there are many types - here are some:
   • The O'TOM tick hook (patented, from Europe) is available through the NSW Veterinary Suppliers Cenvet: Accompanying literature- "For removing ticks; without leaving the head [ie jaws] of the tick implanted in the skin; without using ether or any acarida killing substance; quickly, without pain". After sliding under the body to the narrowest part of the fork, the hook is twisted 2 or 3 times to remove the tick. Useful if the tick is sufficiently engorged. As of Sep 1999 a smaller hook was bundled together with the larger one and this seems to work very well with the smaller adults as well as with nymphal and larval ticks. See www.otom.com.
     
   • An American tick extractor (Ticked Off®) is a spoon-shaped implement with a small notch that is slid underneath the tick.
     
   • Another American tick extractor uses a double scoop peg-like implement. See the TICK-X ® homepage.
     
   • A specialised set of rotating pointed tweezers which clasps the capitulum and permits the tick to be twisted off under gentle traction with only slight compression of the body- judging from the angulation of the blades any salivary toxins might be forced back into the body. It can be a little awkward to use especially if the tick is on the head of a struggling animal- the pointed ends of the tweezer need to be placed accurately (within a mm or so) of the tick's capitulum in order to get a good grip. These tweezers were designed in Europe to remove I.ricinus (the vector of Lyme disease), a much smaller tick and a species which is much easier to remove.(S Doggett pers.com.)
     
   • A Swedish Extractor using a noose method: see www.tickremover.com . This looks to be quite a simple, effective and versatile device.

    

2. Using a pair of scissors. A pair of scissors (preferably round tipped) is held partially open with the tips 3-5 mm apart so forming a small "V". This "V" is then inserted beneath the body of the tick, flat against the skin with the scissor handles angled in the direction of the ticks swollen body. With the free hand the skin is gently tensioned from the direction of the intentioned push. With a firm, sharp horizontal PUSH, parallel to the skin, the tick is dislodged. Try not to pull the tick nor to close the jaws of the scissors as these actions are more likely to damage the tick. When peformed correctly this method will generally remove all of the tick. In humans, who seem more predisposed to developing irritating granulomas, it may be advisable to check under a magnifying lens, the mouth parts of the tick for damage (see Identification). [Web author comment: in animals, leaving mouthparts embedded is not usually a problem- even cutting the tick off at the mouthparts is not of concern as this is enough to prevent further toxin injection]
3. Using long finger nails. Using the finger nails and pincing the head/jaws close to the skin without squeezing the body of the tick one exerts a gentle pull whilst twisting the wrist. Not many people would have the physical ability to do this without squeezing the body. [The importance of not squeezing the body has, however, been questioned in tick removal on pets. See the preceeding NOTE.]
4. Using fine thumb forceps or tweezers. This instrument may be best for removing larval or nymphal stages which are smaller and otherwise more difficult to grasp. The risk of the tick injecting toxin is also less of a problem with these immature ticks. They may be used on an attached adult tick if it can be grasped without squeezing the body.
   
   
5. Using a pair of surgical Allis tissue forceps which has been slightly modified by increasing the angulation of the shaft so that the shafts are bowed out over the body of the tick without compressing it. This gives the best grip, particularly for the strongly attached live paralysis tick. The capitulum is grasped just strongly enough to permit twisting and extraction.
   
6. Using small haemostatic forceps. These offer an excellent grip but are more likely to damage the tick. Commonly used by veterinarians.
7. Using a pair of jewellers forceps having fine curved tips (e.g. Inox No. 7). These are available from the Australian Entomological suppliers for around $20; the tick can be grasped close to the skin of the host and gently levered off.
8. Using a loop of cotton or other material under the body and then pulling the tick out. This can be fiddly and result in excessive time in handling the skin and disturbing the tick. This may be okay when used on cooperative humans.
9. If a tick has been killed (eg with a pyrethrin liquid or spray) then it will dessicate and shrivel and fall off or be readily scraped off after some time. A tick that has been killed seems to dessicate quite rapidly- within hours the cuticle becomes a semi-brittle shell and the body shrivels and shrinks. [the tick seems to be very dependent on active metabolic processes to preserve its hydration].
10. Occasionally, surgical removal of skin to which the tick is attached may be performed under local anaesthetic. Although drastic, this may have merit if there is no possible access to antiserum. Presumably local toxin might be removed along with the tick. However, to this author's knowledge, an ideal surgical margin has not been determined. [One medical practitioner apparently removes larvae with a biopsy punch (S Doggett pers. com.)]
11. Multiple tick bites of tiny grass ticks (larval stage) are best removed if you soak for 30 minutes in a bath with 1 cup of bicarb soda (recommended by TAGS).

After the tick has been removed.

Remember there may be more than one tick so search the whole animal.

The tick can be collected in a sealed jar containing methylated spirit or alcohol and taken to a local veterinarian for identification. If this is not an option it should at least be destroyed so that it does not survive to lay viable eggs.

Clinical signs may be expected, even after removal, in those dogs and cats with female ticks that have engorged (usually to at least 5 mm length). Animals may develop clinical signs or deteriorate for up to 48 hrs after a tick has been removed. It is suggested that animals showing no clinical signs but at risk of paralysis are rested, kept in a relatively cool and comfortable environment and closely observed for at least 48 hours. The animal should be closely monitored for any problems with drinking or eating- if there is any inclination towards vomiting or gagging then food and water are best withheld. Only a few laps at a time of water should be offered during the initial period of observation (frozen ice water blocks in the dogs bowl limit the rate at which and animal can consume the water). Veterinary advice should be sought if there are any characteristic clinical signs or other signs of illness. See clinical. It may be advisable to contact a veterinary surgery early to ensure that veterinary treatment is available out of normal hours.

Treatment of the tick wound is not generally necessary in animals. One should at least avoid applying antiseptics (eg Dettol^TM, Pinoclean^TM) or other agents (eg kerosene, turpentine) which may inflame the relatively thin surface skin layer of dogs and cats and cause mouth or tongue ulcers if licked. Antiseptics containing chlorhexidine or povidone iodine are generally safe to apply if one needs to treat any associated skin infection. In the very rare event of a deep inflammation of the surrounding skin (eg 2-3 cm radius) antibiotics may need to be prescribed. In humans a tetanus immunisation booster is recommended if one has not been given within the preceeding 5 years (White, 1995).

Generally, animals do not develop the obvious allergic reactions seen in humans, but antihistamines would be useful if this was suspected.

In humans it has been suggested that if a tick's mouth parts are suspected to remain embedded in the skin that these be scraped out so as to prevent the formation of a foreign body granuloma. On the other hand this may not be a common concern. According to medical entomologist Stephen Doggett (see Department of Medical Entomology, Westmead Hospital, Sydney ), if part of the tick's mouth parts are left behind embedded in the skin these will eventually slough off with loose skin and be of no concern.

Pressure Immobilisation?

With the bites of certain venomous creatures large toxin molecules are transported via lymphatic drainage to the local lymph nodes and then via the thoracic duct to the venous circulation. To delay this process pressure immobilisation bandaging and limb splintage are recommended. These techniques compress the lymphatic vessels and reduce the effect of the muscle pump mechanism.

The venoms of the Australian snakes, the blue-ringed octopus, cone shells, funnel web spiders and box jellyfish can all have their absorption effectively delayed by pressure immobilisation.

The venoms of the red back spider, other spiders, scorpions, centipedes or the stings of venomous fish, however, are best not treated by pressure immobilisation (White, 1995).

With the paralysis tick toxin a lymphatic drainage pattern has not yet been demonstrated. The most recent research (see Toxicology) indicates that the toxin is in fact a small molecular weight compound, suggesting that lymphatic drainage may not be as important. The in vitro time delay for paralysis suggests that it may not be the absorption of the toxin that is important in causing the delay but other factors at the site of action that are limiting. Pressure immobilisation may therefore be too late to be very useful once toxicity has set in. The St John's Ambulance Manual (see below) specifically states that pressure immobilsation should not be used with paralysis tick bites but does not give any reasoning. On the other hand another source (Sutherland SK, 1999) says that after the tick has been removed, pressure immobilisation is permitted. The Australian Venom Research Unit also suggests pressure immobilisation (see below)

National Tick Paralysis Forum- Tick Removal Recommendations

The National Tick Paralysis Forum 1 (1998), convened with the assistance of Merial Australia Limited, gives the following recommendation:

• "As soon as a paralysis tick is found it should be either rapidly killed or rapidly removed. If the tick is manipulated excessively before being killed or removed, the tick paralysis may get worse.
• Rapid kill. Use a rapid knock-down insecticide such as pyrethrin (fly spray) or an insect repellant (DEET, Aerogard etc). Spray the tick until saturated and remove the tick once it is dead (1-2 hours later).
• Rapid removal. Quickly remove the tick without squeezing the engorged abdomen. Your vet can do this or show you the best method. A special hook or tweezers may be useful"

The National Tick Paralysis Forum 2 (2000)- for pets recommends:

• a rapid pull technique to remove the live tick was associated with shorter hospitalisation time for pets although no sigificant difference in mortality was found, i.e. pre-killing the tick is no longer recommended

TAGS (Tick Alert Group Support, Australia) recommendations- for humans (2000)

• Remove the tick as soon as possible
• Use fine-point tweezers or a tick remover
• Grasp the tick as close to the skin as possible
• Gently pull the tick straight out with steady pressure
• If you have any difficulty seek medical attention
• Wash your hands, disinfect the bite and tweezers
• CHILDREN: tell them to seek adult help for proper tick removal
• MULTIPLE TICK BITES: usually of tiny grass ticks (larval stage) are best removed if you soak for 30 minutes in a bath with 1 cup of bicarb soda

Do not try to kill the tick with methylated spirits. petroleum jelly or any other chemicals. This will cause the tick to inject more toxins.

Save the tick in a small airtight container with moist paper or a piece of grass for further examination if you become ill within a few weeks.

Tick bite can make you ill. In the short term there can be local irritation or allergy caused by injected toxin. Seek medical attention for allergic reactions or unusual symptoms. In the longer term certain individuals can suffer from tick borne infectious diseases. Tick typhus and Lyme borreliosis are the two known bacterial infections transmitted by the Paralysis Tick, Ixodes holocyclus.

• Tick Typhus (or Spotted Fever, caused by Rickettsia australis). Contact your doctor if the following symptoms occur any time up to 14 days after tick bite: fever, muscle or joint pain, headache, sore throat, cough, conjunctivitis, confusion, intolerance to bright light, neck stiffness. There may be generalised rash up to 12 days after tick bite (it can sometimes be confused with chicken pox). At the site of the bite there may be a black scab (an eschar).
• Lyme borreliosis (caused by Borrelia sp of some kind). If you experience any of the following symptoms after a few days, weeks or even months later, contact your doctor. Early infection: flu-like symptoms, headache, fever, muscle or joint pain, unusual fatigue, swollen glands, conjunctivitis. A rash may occur at the site of the bite or elsewhere,variable in shape and colour. Many people do not get a rash. Skin irritation immediately following tick bite is not necressarily a sign of infection. Chronic infection. Symptoms may include chronicfatigue, behavioural changes, severe headaches, neck problems, nerve inflammation, memory problems, eye problems, recurring rashes, intermittent or chronic disabling pain, arthritis, heart problems.

Your Pets. Dogs, cats, horses, cows etc can be infected too, often suffering similar symptoms to humans, especially arthritis.

For the latest information from TAGS write to TAGS at PO Box 95, Mona Vale, NSW 1660.

United States FDA Guidlines- Proper Removal of a Tick

see latest recommendations at :

http://www.fda.gov/ForConsumers/ConsumerUpdates/ucm049298.htm

The best way to remove a tick is with fine-pointed tweezers. Grab as closely to the skin as possible and pull straight back, using steady but gentle force. In addition:

• Do not use your fingers to remove the tick.
• Do not twist the tick, which can cause breakage, leaving part of its body in your skin.
• Do not crush, prick, or burn the tick, which may cause it to salivate or regurgitate infected fluids.
• Do not try to smother the tick with products such as petroleum jelly or mineral oil. Ticks can store enough oxygen to complete feeding.

Proper Disposal of a Tick

Place the tick in a sealed container or small plastic bag and deposit in the trash. James Herrington, MPH, Public Health Education Specialist at the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, says that the humidity ticks need to survive is lacking inside a plastic bag. Do not flush ticks down the toilet because they can easily survive in the water.

St John's Ambulance Manual Recommendations (1988)- Tick Removal

The Authorised Manual of St John Ambulance Australia (1988) gives the following recommendations:

• "if possible, apply a drop of kerosene or turpentine to kill the tick" (referes to figure showing the use of a cotton tipped applicator to do this). [web author's comment: using insect repellant (containing DEET, eg Aerogard®) or insecticide (containing a pyrethroid) are probably better]
• "if in ear, seek medical aid"
• "remove the tick by sliding the open blades of a small pair of sharp scissors or tweezers, one each side of the tick, and lever the tick outwards, being careful not to leave the mouthparts in the skin"
• "do not grasp or squeeze the tick"
• "search carefully for other ticks, particularly in the hair, behind the ears and other body crevices"
• "if the effects of the toxin persist or if the casualty is a child, seek medical aid"
• "do not use pressure immobilisation" [unfortunately no theoretical or empirical justifications for this are given- NF]
• "note: the effects may continue for a few hours following the bite, after which the casualty usually recovers spontaneously. Antivenom is available"

A more recent version says:

• kill the tick with insect repellant, kerosene or lighter fluid; reapply after 1 minute
• wait for one hour; the tick should shrink and darken and can usually be easily scraped off, if not it can be carefully pried off using small blunt curved scissors or tweezers
• a cold compress can be used to control pain
• if the effects of the toxin persist or if the casualty is a child, seek medical aid

CSL (Commonwealth Serum Laboratories) Antivenom Handbook- Tick Removal Recommendations (1995)

First Aid for Tick Bites (White, 1995):

• "carefully remove the tick using alcohol to irritate it and pry it off the patient using tweezers on either side of the mouth parts. Do not hold it by the body and pull it off as this may leave the mouth parts embedded in the skin.
• If the patient has, or develops, any symptoms of paralysis, such as gait disturbance or other muscle weakness, immediately seek medical help.
• If the patient has not had tetanus immunisation booster within the last 5 years, ensure that it is given by the local doctor.
• If the wound becomes more red or painful after 24 hours see medical help (possible secondary infection)."

Australian Venom Research Unit (AVRU)

First Aid for Australian Paralysis Tick (Ixodes holocyclus) envenomation:

• find and remove the tick; support the patient until antivenom can be administered [if required]; the tick should be levered out using a pair of curved scissors; check carefully for other attached ticks.
• if the patient is already ill, the pressure-immobilisation procedure should be used if possible to inhibit the movement of any toxic saliva which has been expressed during the removal of the tick
• supplemental oxygen and occasionally mechanical ventilation may be required
• less severe cases may only require removal of the tick and observation, as symptoms will not necessarily abate after its removal; for severe cases, tick antivenom may be given intravenously

Australia's Most Dangerous spiders, snakes and marine creatures (Australian Geographic) - White J, Edmonds C & Zborowski P (2001)

"The best method of removing a tick is quite contentious. It's important not to squeeze the body as more toxins may be injected and cause far worse reactions. Daubing the tick with alcohol, insect repellant or pyrethrum-based spray will cause it to die and sometimes fall off. Very fine tweezers can be used with great care to grab only the barbed feeding tube and pull the tick out. If the tick is engorged it's advisable to have it removed by a medical practitioner who will have the facilities available to deal with any reactions that may occur if the tick releases toxins during removal.

Removing the tick is essential and medical observation important...Most human patients recover over time without the antitoxin.

Prevention is the best strategy. After spending time in grassland and bush in tick-prone areas, always check yourself, children and pets. Most insect repellants work on ticks and their use is advisable, especially if you're prone to allergic reactions."

 

About DEET (N, N-diethyl-m-toluamide)

DEET in Australia is the active ingredient of repellants such as Aerogard®, Rid® etc.

 

 

The Paralysis Tick of Australia - Home

E-mail Us to report a broken link!